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Dress style and under garments of 1860
A corset was to help mold the body to the desired shape. As well as making corsets more constricting this heavy structure helped prevent them from riding up, or from wrinkling at the waist.
Day dresses featured wide pagoda sleeves which were worn over under sleeves or engageantes. High necklines with lace or tatted collars or chemisettes completed the demure daytime look. Evening gowns had low necklines and short sleeves, and were worn with short gloves or lace or crocheted fingerless mitts. -
1865 Skirts.
The round hoop of 1860 evolved into an oval hoop by 1865. As the skirt kept evolving, the focus on the back became the creation of the first bustle, which had appeared by 1868. The big, soft, high and very draped bustle skirt was popular for 8 years. -
Wedding Dresses
This picture is a 1868 silk faille and chenille wedding gown.For a wedding dress a wide skirt would have been supported underneath by a cage cirnoline. In 1865 cage crinolines stuck out more from behnd and were flatter in the front which is different to the bell-shaped crinolines of the 1850s -
Leisure Dresses
Leisure dresses were an important part of a woman's wardrobe (seaside dresses). Seaside dresses were seen as more daring, frivolous, eccentric and brighter. Even though the bustle was extremely cumbersome, it was still a part of seaside fashion. -
Wapes and Overcoats
The main type of wrap that dominated in 1870 were capes and jackets that had a back opening in order to make for the for the buslte. Some exampes are the pelisee and the paletot coat. -
Dresses
Around 1875, the style altered and the skirt began to hug the upper leg in the front while the bustle at the back was reduced to a natual flow from the waist to the train, This period of time was marked by the darker colours, irregular drapery and oversized accessories. -
Hair Styles
For a years during the bustle period (1870-1875) it was popular to have the hair crimped or styled in multiple waves. Most woman would often have there hair pulled back at the sides and worn in a high knot or cluster or ringlets, often with a fringe (bangs) over the forehead. False hair was commonly used. -
Dresses and Hair
In this picture "Madame Paul Porirson wears the fashionable neckline of mid-decade, wide at the bust and narrower at the shoulder. Flowers trim bodice, and draped skirt".
In the 1880s woman's dresses would have tightly fitting bodices with very narrow sleeves and high necklines. Hair was worn in tight, close curls on the top of the head. Caps and hats were usually neat and small, to fit on top of the hairstyle. -
Shoes
In the 1800s the United States began manufacturing footwear using technolgy it had been deleloping for arond 20 years. What they created would cut, sew, bead, and size the footwear. This meant fashionable, sturdy, fitted foot wear could be produced for less then half of the cost then if it were to be custom-made. -
Dresses
In 1883, the bustle was brought back by popular demand but with a few changes. It was narrower in the width and worn lower down. The dresses worn over this frame wer more sturdy. The dreses were made with heavier fabrics such as velvet, wool and satin. The colors were also darker such as deep wine, bottle green, navy blue and black. In the summer cotton and linen were used. -
Fans
In the picture the oval fan at the left of the group of fans is a straw colored crape with a lacqurered white frame. The edge of the fan is surounded with a detailed border of cream lace with the net ground being cut away. The centre is a painted scene of flowers and butterflies. The middle fan is an orange gauze with a water color floral design.The sticks are made from gilded wood. At the right is a large bronze colored fan made from ostrich feathers attached to gilt sticks with a ribbon bow. -
Dresses
In 1890, the busle dissappeared the skin became slim in the front and still very full in the back, but without poufs or lifts. Sleeves began to expand slowly. bodices became either short at the hip, or long as a jacket -
Hair
1892, highstyles became influenced by the gibson girl. By the mid 1890s, hair had become looser and wavier and bangs gradually faded from high fashion. Short bangs were mostly popular in the 1990 with a very small topknot and loose, short hair around the outer forehead and cheeks. Hair was also sometimes worn in a bun at the back of the neck.
